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Menu Talk with Pat and Bret

Menu Talk with Pat and Bret is a collaboration between Restaurant Business senior menu editor Pat Cobe and Bret Thorn, senior food & beverage editor of Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality.

Pepe Moncayo’s food at Cranes in Washington, D.C., reflects the sum of his experience

The Catalonian chef spent a decade in Singapore but also fell in love with Japanese food

 

Pepe Moncayo is the chef and owner of Cranes, a restaurant he opened in Washington, D.C., in February of 2020 to enthusiastic acclaim. Of course normal operations ceased five weeks later, but the fine-dining restaurant survived and the chef’s food, which reflects his own culinary journey, continues to be appreciated by guests.

Moncayo was born and raised in the suburbs of Barcelona, Spain, and started cooking after his mother passed away when he was 13. He would accompany her to the market, carrying her bags for her as she shopped for food for their meals, and he continued to follow in her footsteps after her death, preparing meals for his father, who worked in a factory, and his older brother and younger sister. He realized that cooking was the field he wanted to go into when, as he searched for colleges to attend, the only thing that appealed to him was culinary school. 

After graduation he worked at some of the best restaurants in Barcelona until his mentor, Santi Santamaria of Can Fabes restaurant, invited him to work under him at Santi restaurant at the Marina Bay Sands resort in Singapore. Moncayo stayed in that city-state, working in various positions until he eventually opened his own restaurant, Bam! in 2013.

During his stay in Asia he also visited Japan to learn about that country’s cuisine, and he fell in love with it.

That influence is reflected in the food at Cranes, a restaurant named for the migratory birds. Moncayo says his own journeys have had a strong impact on his own cooking, so the name seemed appropriate.

He recently discussed his approach to cooking and running restaurants.

This interview was part of a new podcast series called Menu Talk with Pat and Bret, a collaboration between Restaurant Business senior menu editor Pat Cobe and Bret Thorn, senior food & beverage editor of Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality. You can subscribe to it wherever you listen to podcasts.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

About the Authors

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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