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New on the Menu

Articles on new and innovative food and beverage items trending across the independent restaurant landscape

New on the Menu: A birria torta, Japanese eggplant fritters and a Southern trout in a New England sauce

Plus dishes from Zachary Engel at Galit in Chicago and Richard Chen, the new chef at Red 8 at the Encore Boston Harbor

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

February 5, 2021

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Welcome to this relaunched weekly version of New on the Menu, which highlights creative dishes at independent restaurants across the country.

This week we look at chef Malcolm McMillian’s trout dish at Benne on Eagle in Asheville, N.C., which he serves over a chowder made New England-style, but the clams are replaced by catfish that he smokes in-house, and the clam juice is replaced by trout stock.

Next we showcase FM Kitchen & Bar in Houston, where head chef Bety Barrera makes use of the increasingly popular taco filling, birria. Originally from the Mexican state of Jalisco, birria is traditionally braised goat, but in the United States it’s often made with beef and served in tacos with a reduction of the braising liquid served on the side. If that sounds a little like a French Dip, then you and Barrera might be on the same wavelength: She puts the birria on a telera roll and serves it as a sandwich.

Zachary Engel, the award winning chef making Middle Eastern-inspired food in Chicago, is roasting local sweet potatoes and dressing them in a variety of Near Eastern flavors, including sesame, cilantro and garlic.

In New York City, a Japanese meat distributor based in the Bronx, N.Y., has opened an Italian restaurant in Manhattan named Marezzata, which means “marbled” in Italian and refers to the meat they sell. Dengaku is a Japanese term for food that’s glazed in miso, and that’s what they do with the eggplant fritters featured in this week’s NOM.

Finally we go to Boston, where Richard Chen, the new chef of Red 8, is celebrating the Lunar New Year with a whole steamed sea bass.

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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