3 unexpectedly meaty ideas

As our protein landscape expands, restaurant menus explore new twists on classics. At Rioja in Denver, Chef Jennifer Jasinski’s lamb burger combines lamb and bacon scraps with fat back and housemade fresh mozzarella. Chef Seamus Scott of Roots Market in Maryland prepares soy “chicken” breasts with an apricot pumpkin miso sauce, while Chef Matthew Ridgway of The Southern Gentleman in Atlanta combines the classic appetizer of steak tartare with a trendy black-eyed pea salad tossed with crispy black-eyed peas fried in olive oil.