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François Payard to head up reimagined Karvér

Modern brasserie concept to open three locations in New York

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

January 25, 2018

2 Min Read
Karvér
Karvér

Renowned French pastry chef François Payard has joined modern brasserie concept Karvér as its culinary director. The first location is slated to reopen Thursday in the Brooklyn neighborhood of Sheepshead Bay. That will be followed by another location in Downtown Brooklyn in late February and a third location in the Manhattan neighborhood of Chelsea in March.

The Sheepshead Bay location first opened last fall, but then closed to be reconceptualized.

Payard worked at La Tour d’Argent in Paris before moving to New York where he worked first as pastry chef at Le Bernardin and then as the opening pastry chef at Restaurant Daniel. He later set off on his own and opened two namesake restaurants in New York and one in Las Vegas.

He parted ways with them in 2016. 

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Payard said that Karvér’s ownership approached him to see if he could help improve the concept.

“It was not really a true brasserie, nor was it a bakery,” he said, noting that the baked goods were all purchased.

Now Payard has brought in baking equipment that will allow him to bake eight baguettes at a time, basically to order, using a recipe from former Payard employees.

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While Payard is responsible for menu development, individual chefs will head up each location. The executive chef of the Sheepshead Bay unit is Byron Panafiel, who was executive sous chef of Le Bilboquet and Rotisserie Georgette, both in New York City. He also had stints at BLT Steak, BLT Fish and Buddakan, all in New York, as well.

Payard said the menu would not be exclusively French but also would have elements of Italian and American cuisine. 

That includes shared plates such as arancini, or fried risotto balls, flatbreads, charcuterie and cheese boards and spreads such as a house terrine, salmon rillettes and ricotta with chiles.

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French onion soup is on the appetizer menu, as well as escargots, tuna tartare and a kale salad. They range in price from $8 to $15.

Entrées range from $18 moules frites to a $32 rib eye. There’s also salmon and branzino, duck confit and chicken paillard.

A sunny-side-up egg can be ordered on the side for $2

“The food is exactly what I want to eat every day,” Payard said. 

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]

Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary 

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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