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Rabbit turns up on spring menus

Lisa Jennings, Executive Editor

March 23, 2016

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Kachka Portland OR At Kachka which features the food of the former Soviet Union chef Bonnie Morales braises hindquarter rabbit meat in a clay pot with

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Kachka, Portland, OR At Kachka, which features the food of the former Soviet Union, chef Bonnie Morales braises hindquarter rabbit meat in a clay pot with smetana, a type of sour cream common in Eastern Europe, porcini mushrooms, sour cherries and garlic, and served with drank, a potato pancake. Carly Diaz

Just as the Easter Bunny starts thinking about an appearance, rabbit dishes appear on restaurant menus.

It’s not really seasonal meat, but rabbit tends to go well with spring vegetables, says Ariane Daguin, c.e.o. of meat supplier D’Artagnan.

Widely used in Europe, rabbit is still considered a bit exotic in the U.S., though it has grown in popularity steadily over the past three decades that D’Artagnan has been in business, Daguin says.

“In the urban fancy restaurants, and not-so-fancy bistros, it’s a meat that’s growing fast and getting very popular,” she adds. “It’s easy for chefs because it’s original but also mild tasting, so you can do a lot of different things with it, and it’s pretty easy to cook. The loin cooks fast, the legs you can do as a stew.”

The most classic presentation is the French lapin a la moutarde, she says. “But it can also be very sophisticated.”

Daguin notes that New York chef Daniel Boulud once took a bone-in loin of rabbit and Frenched it, as one might do to a rack of lamb, for example.

Here’s a roundup of rabbit dishes on restaurant menus across the country.

About the Author

Lisa Jennings

Executive Editor, Nation's Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality

Lisa Jennings is executive editor of Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality. She joined the NRN staff as West Coast editor in 2004 as a veteran journalist. Before joining NRN, she spent 11 years at The Commercial Appeal, the daily newspaper in Memphis, Tenn., most recently as editor of the Food and Health & Wellness sections. Prior experience includes staff reporting for the Washington Business Journal and United Press International.

Lisa’s areas of expertise include coverage of both large public restaurant chains and small independents, the regulatory and legal landscapes impacting the industry overall, as well as helping operators find solutions to run their business better.

Lisa Jennings’ experience:

Executive editor, NRN (March 2020 to present)

Executive editor, Restaurant Hospitality (January 2018 to present)

Senior editor, NRN (September 2004 to March 2020)

Reporter/editor, The Commercial Appeal (1990-2001)

Reporter, Washington Business Journal (1985-1987)

Contact Lisa Jennings at:

[email protected]

@livetodineout

https://www.linkedin.com/in/lisa-jennings-83202510/

 

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